Comida de Subúrbio: cultura, memória e comensalidade das Yabás da Grande Madureira

Abstract

"I come here because that's where I find suburban food." Over and over again for six years, this phrase permeated the curiosity to know what a "suburban food" is. To understand this culinary found at the Yabás Fair - a gastronomy and music event in Oswaldo Cruz, a district in the North Zone of Rio de Janeiro, the study aimed to revisit the culture, memory and comensality in the city's leisure spaces, analyzing the transformations of Rio's suburbs from urban reforms, mega events and new uses of the street for cultural events. We point out the trajectory of the Yabás Fair as a heritage of Rio de Janeiro, a space of resistance of suburban culture, diverse and essentially black. We understand the relations between the Rio suburb and its cuisine, from the coexistence with the matriarchs of the region, who tell their stories through food - the yabás of Grande Madureira. We appreciate the sensoriality of suburban food through the experiences provoked by food as a communicational element - the senses of the body that receive, analyze and process the information received - as a relationship between memory and affectivity: the sounds, smells and tastes of food; eating with the hands, the contact of the bodies and moments of celebration.