A moda da dança: um estudo sobre corpo, cidade e representações

Abstract

This work is devoted to the study of nonverbal communication, starting with the observation that dance and fashion frequently meet in atmospheres that are not their own for convention. Seemingly different, they develop a language that complete themselves. Dance is a constant theme in fashion and fashion was adapted by dance. In common, dance and fashion have the body, media that both of them need to exist. Dance only can happen essentially with the presence of one or more bodies, that work as the means of communication and registration, and the fashion shows up to dress the body that, consequently, gives the movement. The physical characteristics of the body modify the clothes and the clothes format transforms the body, and it can produce different meanings. This research approaches the scenic dance and the fashion system as communication phenomena with urban characteristics and it has the objective to study the representations of fashion in the atmosphere of the scenic dance, starting with the analysis of three shows from Deborah Colker s dance company, from Rio de Janeiro. As a methodology, this company was selected because it demonstrates a concern over a dialogue between dance and fashion, always bringing fashion designers to work as costume designers in their shows. The shows 4por4 (2002), Knot (2005) and Cruel (2008) bring differents partnerships between the choreographer and fashion professionals. Used to create tendencies, they have the challenge of inventing a costume for a limited number of characters. While in fashion, they create for the whole society, in the scenic show, they dress each character's features. As theoretical reference, this research uses the body as social fact concept from Marcel Mauss and body as media concepts from Harry Pross and Helena Katz, besides the body study and communication from Nízia Villaça and José Carlos Rodrigues. The fashion system concept will be understood from Roland Barthes's and Gilles Lipovetsky writings, which describe it as characteristic of the current time. It means that even if the wild societies had the taste for ornamentation, it was not similar to the process and the notion of the current fashion system. Besides that, in the dance area, it was necessary to build up a brief historical context for better understanding the dialogues between fashion and dance. José Gil and Denise Siqueira are important authors, because they studied not only the scenic dance show, but also the dancing body.